Mountainville
New York
Just an hour north of
Manhattan are two places where large-scale sculpture go to be put out to
pasture. One is accessible by train, Dia:Beacon, and the other by bus, Storm
King Art Center. Both make for wonderful daytrips, but Storm King’s 2012 season
ends November 25th, so I’m going to focus on it first, just in case
anyone reads this and thinks, “By Jove! I simply must go to there!”
Short Line Bus offers a
package ticket deal of $45 for transportation to and from Port Authority and
entrance to Storm King. I’ve done this trip three times and find it gives you
the perfect amount of time to explore the Art Center’s some 500 acres. The bus
leaves at 10am and returns a little after 6pm, leaving you a little over five
hours with the art and landscaped hillside. When you board the bus at 10am, you
will be surrounded by Italians from New Jersey who are carrying numerous
suitcases. Do not be alarmed. They are going to the Woodbury Common Outlet
Mall. Their suitcases are empty (for now). Only you and two other vaguely
artsy-looking couples wearing glasses, flannel, and straw hats will stay on the
bus to Storm King after everyone else gets off in Woodbury.
Just in case you’re
thinking five hours sounds like an awfully long time, allow me to reiterate
that the grounds are 500 acres and there are over 100 sculptures scattered
about them. There’s also a Museum Building that exhibits smaller works and
drawings. Daily tours are offered of Museum Hill (the area surrounding the
Museum Building) at 2pm and family programming is offered every 1pm on Sundays.
Every time I visit Storm King I find something that I missed last time. You
simply cannot see the entire place in one day, even if you ride the tram or
rent a bike. You cannot bring your own bike, but there are some to rent.
The best thing to do,
though, is to hoof it. A great deal of the art is tucked away beyond paved
surfaces, so if you do bike or tram only, you’ll miss some of the best works,
like the manmade wall designed by Andy Goldsworthy (a personal favorite of
mine). There’s an entire section that is almost untouched woodland—no riding
your bike in there. Maya Lin’s epic earthwork Wavefield is on a hill tucked
behind a row of trees. Walking really is the best way to experience Storm King.
It gives you time to experience your surroundings rather than just whizzing
past them.
Storm King Art Center was
founded in 1960. It began with thirty acres and was initially going to be a
museum dedicated to the Hudson River School. Thankfully, that never manifested
because by 1961 the founders had become more interested in modern sculpture—the
first purchases are clustered around the exterior of the Museum Building. Then
in 1966, one year after the passing of David Smith, the founders purchased
thirteen works from Smith’s estate and decided to begin placing works in the
landscape around the building. The rest is history. Now the Art Center covers
hundreds of acres and even owns the rights to 2100 acres of Schunnemunk
Mountain in order to preserve the views of the lands from Museum Hill.
One other note before you
go: there is absolutely no eating anywhere other than the designated picnic
area near the entrance of Storm King! Seriously, not even in the parking lot.
The Storm King po-po will see you and stop you and shame you. This helps
maintain the pristine conditions of the Art Center and prevents unsightly
trashcans from being sprinkled amongst the art. A few years ago Storm King
finally wised up and opened a café where you can buy sandwiches, salads, and
snacks. Before that, it was bag your own or go hungry.
Now, hurry up and get
there before it closes for the winter! Or, wait until it reopens in the spring.
Better yet, do both. Or, if you’re very adventurous, Storm King offers special
winter walks once a month for members only. A membership is only $50, less for
students or families, so if you like art and snow, it could be the choice for
you.
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