Sunday, October 28, 2012

Roosevelt Island


Upper East Side
East River
New York

In my over eleven years as a New Yorker, I have been to visit Roosevelt Island four times. The first was about ten years ago, the most recent was early this spring. There has been some pretty big changes going on about the island, but I can’t say they’ve all been good. Somehow, while cleaning up the area, it also began to lose some of its charm. It’s not entirely gone, however; there are still some packets of glitter here and there. 


You can get to Roosevelt Island on the F-train, but anyone who’s anyone takes the Tram from 59th Street and Second Avenue. Don’t worry, if it falls, Spiderman will save you. The Tram ride over is the main reason most people go to Roosevelt Island in the first place. Many people get off and take the next car back over to Manhattan. Which is a shame as they’re missing out on lovely views of Manhattan, Brooklyn, and Queens from a magnolia tree lined path that circles most of the island. 


Ten years ago there were wonderful signs that led visitors on a self-guided walking tour. These signs are now either all gone or ruined by weather/vandals and the Roosevelt Island Historical Society’s solution seems to be to ask people to help replace them rather than to replace them themselves. Today your best option is to download a hard-to-read map with insanely tiny type put out by the Roosevelt Island Operating Corporation. A small visitors center has been restored and reopened by the RIHS. It is rarely open and sells a nondescript map with no didactics of the historical structures on the island. Perhaps the RIHS is hoping to draw more people to its occasional walking tours by refusing to replace the guided-tour signs or offer a more informative map.


Has lost some charm: Strecker Laboratory. It used to be one had to view this crumbling 19th-century Romanesque Revival structure made from rusticated local stone from behind a rusty, weed-laden fence. It had a spooky aura about it, like the pathological and bacteriological work done in it was à la Island of Dr. Moreau. Now its been cleaned up and has fresh paint on the doors and windows. It’s part of the shiny new F.D.R Memorial Park at the southern tip of the island. On the plus side, there are now public toilets for visitors. My first few visits were laden with incidents of public urination.


Still has its charm: Smallpox Hospital. After the tram ride, this is the second coolest thing about Roosevelt Island. This Gothic Revival structure is something straight out of The Mysteries of Udolpho. It was open in 1856 to accept charity cases. Despite the development of vaccinations, NYC continued to be plagued by smallpox epidemics as late at the 1870s. It was later turned into a housing unit for the nurses of the Charity Hospital Training School opened just to the north. Because generally poor individuals were treated for free on the island, it got the name Welfare Island. The Smallpox Hospital is beyond repair and is tucked safely behind a fence. Wooden and metal support beams keep the standing walls from collapse. It looks particularly spooky lit by floodlights at night and can be seen from Manhattan.


Has lost some charm: Blackwell House. Not that this 18th century Dutch farmhouse was ever that charming. Or maybe it’s just sour grapes. New York is filled with 17th and 18th century Dutch houses that are closed off to the general public. I find it annoying to not be allowed inside preserved historical structures. Blackwell House is used as a community center for meetings and the whatnot. In my four visits to the island I have never seen nor heard anything about it being opened to the general community. Nor can one properly look inside the windows to see anything of interest. Humpf!


Still has its charm: The Lighthouse. I mean, who doesn’t love darling little lighthouses? And this one has a great story to go with it: In the 19th century, John McCarthy, a patient from the Lunatic Asylum was granted permission to build a fort because he feared the invasion of the British. When the plans to build a lighthouse were formulated, they had to bribe the patient with fake funds to get him to demolish his fort. McCarthy later claimed to build the lighthouse himself and even carved an inscription near the foot of the lighthouse taking credit for the work he never actually did.


Has lost some charm: Octagon Tower. Like the Strecker Laboratory, I liked the Octagon Tower better when it was a vine-riddled crumbling structure behind a fence (that was very easy to crawl through). It once served as the main entranceway for the New York Lunatic Asylum; now it is part of a new residential building that boasts Adirondack chairs, a community garden, and a gallery that features Roosevelt Island themed exhibitions. I will grudgingly admit that the restored spiral staircase looping up through the foyer is awfully nice. 


Everything else: The Chapel of the Good Shepherd—like most churches—is lovely, but rarely open to the public outside of worship hours so you have to admire it from the outside. Across the street from it is the cheapest (both in price and quality) Salvation Army I have ever seen. The Tom Otterness statues along the Western Promenade are typical of his cutesy but bland Monopoly style works. The Meditation Steps are falling apart and the pier in the form of a boat prow is covered in graffiti, but that’s the best part about it. There’s an extremely sparkly statue in the F-train lobby, which seems to be a metaphor for Roosevelt Island’s recent hit-and-miss efforts to spiffy itself up.


One of my favorite things about Roosevelt Island is its Automated Vacuum Collection System, which is also found in Disney World. You can’t see them, but there are tubes all over the island that suction residents’ waste to the AVAC building where it is compacted. This is just one of the little gems of information provided on the now-missing self-guided walking tour placards. 


Roosevelt Island can be a nice place to visit if you’re looking for something a bit different and out of the ordinary to do. Note, however, that the island can give off a bit of a sad, dejected air. My boyfriend became quite depressed while visiting the place and has no desire to return, so if you’re prone to melancholia, it’s perhaps best to avoid Welfare Island. I, however, think it’s a nice place to take a stroll every few years.

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