Centerport
Long Island
One of the most elaborate
estates to be found on Long Island’s Gold Coast is Eagle’s Nest, the summer
home of railroad baron trust-fund baby William K. Vanderbilt II and family. William
“worked” at his family’s New York Central Railroad offices at Grand Central
Station in Manhattan, but his real passions were yachting and racing. He had
the sort of upraising that allowed him to drop out of Harvard after two years
and spend most of his time traveling and enjoying his leisure time. Despite
being born into a ridiculously wealthy family, he felt the need to marry
Virginia Graham Fair, the wealthy heiress of the Comstock Load mining fortune.
Together the two developed the 43-acre estate in Nassau County from 1910 to
1936. Willie K. even started the Vanderbilt Cup, the first major car-racing
trophy in the United States, which continued on Long Island until 1968.
The first building phase
of Eagle’s Nest was the 24-room Spanish Baroque revival style mansion designed
by the same architectural firm that designed New York’s Grand Central Terminal
for the Vanderbilt family. On weekends in the summer visitors can take a
“Living History” tour where actors portraying friends and family of the Vanderbilts
guide groups through the home. This is what piqued my interest in visiting
Eagle’s Nest: I love guides in period costume! The term “actor,” however, is a
generous one for the individuals who took us through the home on Memorial Day
Weekend, the first weekend that the Living History tours are offered. Perhaps
they were rusty from not having “performed” since the Labor Day Weekend before,
but there was a lot of stumbling through lines and horrible accents.
We were met by a rather
shabbily dressed Coco Chanel in a pair of brown loafers I’m sure the real Coco
would have never worn. The stories told on the tours are based on the
experiences of people who lived nearby and who worked on the estate as
teenagers. They also use materials from the museum’s archives, which includes
personal letters, journals, and photographs. Coco Chanel left us when she ran
into Delia O’Rourke, the Vanderbilt’s Irish cook whose Irish accent made Coco’s French seem Oscar worthy. Things perked up when we met up with Ellin Berlin, the wife of
composer Irving Berlin, but the best guide by far was Stirling Vanderbilt,
Willie’s brother, who, unfortunately, had to leave us to check on his yacht.
I personally was rather
disappointed in the Living History tour, but despite the uneven performances
Ben thought it was better than a regular tour given in the ordinary manner, so
perhaps I had my as usual too-high expectations. I suggest visitors looking for
this tour go later in the summer when the actors have had the opportunity to
better hone their craft.
The Living History tours
began about ten years ago, but people have been visiting Eagle’s Nest since
1922 when Willie opened the Hall of Fishes in his own personal Marine Museum.
During Junior’s travels he collected sea life, birds, animals, and cultural
artifacts for the museum he planned to build on the Long Island estate. Along
with the Marine Museum, rooms in the mansion contain his cultural-artifacts and
natural-history collections and the basement contains his 1928 Lincoln touring
car, a rare 1909 Reo Gentleman’s Roadster, and a history of the Vanderbilt Cup
Races. Willie worked with scientists and artists from the American Museum of
Natural History to design the Habitat and Stoll Wings which contains dioramas
of animal life, including a 32-foot whale shark, the world’s largest
taxidermied fish.
Other highlights of the
estate are the rose garden and Corinthian colonnade, and the remains of a
9-hole golf course and salt-water pool, all of which overlook the Northport Bay
of Long Island Sound. Willie K. panned on donating his estate to the public as
an educational facility and created a trust for it in his will. The county
opened the estate as a museum in 1950, and built the planetarium to further the
Vanderbilt educational goals in 1970. The carriage house has been turned into
an education center for school groups. Visitors during the summer, however,
don’t need to worry about large groups of children. It’s best to arrive early
if you’re interested in the Living History tour as they tend to sell out.
Regular tours are on offer for those not as keen on dramatic interpretation.
There aren’t many dining
options in the area, and there’s no cafĂ© in the Vanderbilt estate, so allow me
to recommend The Shack, located about a quarter mile past 86 (Little Neck Road,
which leads to Eagle’s Nest) on 25A, just at the start of Stony Hollow Road. As
the name implies, it is little more than a roadside shack with modest picnic
tables to sit on and no table service, but the unpretentious clams, fries,
chowder, and beer are all reasonably priced and welcome in an area lacking dining
establishments.
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