Saturday, November 10, 2012

Lefferts Historic House Museum


Prospect Park
Brooklyn

New York was settled by the Dutch in the 17th century and the area is still filled with surviving 17th and 18th century Dutch homes. Some have been renovated and continue to serve as residences, others are run down but still standing, while a few, like the 23 sites under the care of the Historic House Trust, have been preserved and are open to the public. 


The Lefferts House is one of the best-known of NYC’s restored Dutch homes. The Lefferts Historic House Museum is located in Prospect Park’s “Children’s Corner” next to the zoo and the carousel. As such, one would imagine it sees a bit more traffic than the sites located way out in Queens, Staten Island, and the Bronx. It follows that it sees more donations and gets more attention. The Museum's website boasts that 40,000 people visit it every year. Given its location that number seems impossibly low. Despite its apparent best efforts, the Lefferts House is a rather drab, lackluster place. This leaves me little hope for visiting the Hendrick I. Lott House or Pieter Claesen Wyckoff Farmhouse.

The building was built by Pieter Lefferts in 1783 to replace the family’s 17th century home that burnt down during the Battle of Brooklyn in 1776. It was constructed with both freed and slave labor. The building was inhabited by Lefferts descendants until it was donated to the City of New York in 1917 on the grounds that it be moved to Prospect Park. It first opened as a museum in 1920 under the Forte Greene chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution.


The exterior and ground floor of the homestead has been designed with school and family oriented environmental education in mind. Perhaps it is this push toward child-level education that makes it a bit boring for the average visitor. The Museum attempts to touch upon American Indian (specifically the Lanape, the tribe that inhabited the region), Black, and Dutch experiences, as well as the changing landscape. To this effect there is a reconstructed wigwam, wooden cart, and garden with local and Dutch-import crops.

One of the more interesting outdoor features is the presence of a plank path and toll house. One of the way the Lefferts family made money was by building wooden roads on the muddy streets on Flatbush and charging people money to ride on them. The sign doesn’t mention it, but “Flatbush” is an Americanization of the Dutch “Vlacke Bos,” meaning “wooded plain.” Also outside is the kitchen hearth and brick oven. The curators decided to transplant it to the yard so it could be used for cooking events and demonstrations without fear of burning the house down. As a result, the interior kitchen is now largely made up of rather silly trompe l’oeil paintings. 

 
The first room upon entering the house is designed to occupy children while their parents look at other things. It has books and vintage toys like wooden blocks and checkers, and a game known as Nine Man Morris. Outside children can play hoops and graces. The most developed exhibition is dedicated to the process of making fabric. This is in the painted kitchen and includes fabric samples. This is also the only place in the museum that has any sort of real didactics. The rest of the place is set up but there’s no information. That always bothers me. For example, near the kitchen fabric display is a desk with school materials. There’s also a table with random American Indian objects like animal hides and beaded gloves. But you don’t really know what they’re about, or whether you’re supposed to touch them. I got the distinct feeling that one needed to be with a school group to get the full information about the place.

Tours of the second floor are offered to the general public on the weekends, though they’re a bit spotty. The Prospect Park website says they’re offered every half hour, but it’s more they’re offered whenever a group of people express interest in one. The house seems to be run by high school and college volunteers who mean well but who definitely aren’t experts on colonial arts and crafts. 


Only two rooms upstairs are open to the public and the very short tour consisted of a room with three cases of blue and white china, a hallway with a cabinet and case of broken delft tiles from Holland, and a period bedroom. There appears to be no electricity in the building, so things can be pretty dim on an overcast day. A hole had been cut into the wall to reveal the joined-wood construction, but it was too dark in the hall to appreciate it. Adding to the gloominess was a tattered wall didactic that had fallen off its Velcro and lay on the floor of the china room. Our guide informed us that the furniture in the bedroom was original. This room is known as Grandma Femmetie’s room because it was the only bedroom with a fireplace so the Lefferts grandmother got to sleep there. There was no information in the room, but a binder on a table downstairs had pictures and information of Grandma Femmetie’s room. The text in the binder explained that the furniture was not original to the house, but rather appropriate period pieces. 


All of the didactics hung in the downstairs foyer address the changing land and the moving of the home from its original location to the park. There is absolutely nothing about the period room on the ground floor, which is annoying to say the least, especially since it contains two portraits. Who are these people? Lefferts? Or just random “period” portraits to give the room an authentic air? And where were the exhibition developer and historian? The Lefferts House is open only on weekends and holidays. Surely it can’t be safeguarded at all times by minors?

The museum will be closed in January and February except for holidays. Right now if you visit you can see the 21st Annual Quilt Show. I’ve seen other quilt shows in the Lefferts House and the one this year seems smaller than in previous years. There are a few nice pieces, despite the show’s vague theme of “cool.” I have to admit I rather admire the craft of quilting; particularly fetching are Ruby Horansky’s A Drop of Rain and Michele Kucker’s Snow/Crocus.


Despite all my grumbling, the exterior of the Lefferts House is rather pretty. The entranceway is in the rear of the home so be sure to walk around to the front which faces Flatbush Avenue. There you can admire the American Gothic dormer windows and Dutch door. As an added bonus the front lawn has a small rusty Revolutionary War canon that was found on Governor’s Island and moved to Prospect Park.

Perhaps I like the idea of Dutch homes better than the actual homes themselves. However, I am not ready to give up just yet. I will continue to explore the various Dutch homes that New York has to offer. I am determined to find one that is more than mildly amusing. The Lefferts Historic House Museum is not the answer to this quest. One down, twenty-two more to go.

Friday, November 2, 2012

Dia:Beacon


Beacon
New York

In my last post I wrote about Storm King Art Center as one of two places where large-scale sculpture go to retire. Storm King suffered very little damage from Sandy and will be open as scheduled for the next month. The other place to see monumental sculpture that threatens to topple and crush you à la Richard Serra or Christo and Jeanne-Claude is Dia:Beacon. 


Dia:Beacon is more accessible than Storm King (well, not right now, as Metro-North trains are still being repaired). It is settled in the middle of a picturesque town and is a mere 80-minute train ride from Manhattan. Because of its location in a town with food and shelter as opposed to Storm King’s more remote status, it can make for a more comfortable day-trip, or even be extended into a weekend mini-break. 

Thanks to Dia, which opened in Beacon in 2003 as an extension of its Chelsea location, Beacon has been experiencing a renaissance. Just a decade ago Beacon was a shabby sleepy place with a couple of cafés and more than its fair share of antique/junk shops. Now it boasts a growing arts scene, waterfront development, cupcake bakeries, and multiple bed and breakfasts.

I first visited Beacon in 2006 when there still weren’t many galleries and the first B&B had yet to open. My boyfriend and I had to stay at a motel in nearby Fishkill, and, because the local car service stopped running at 5pm, we had to get there early. It was a pretty amazing place: A $50-a-night classic motel run by a young couple who decorated the check-in area with their own pen-and-ink tattoo drawings. Sadly, this place is now closed. As is the delicious soul food restaurant that was once run out a woman’s house on Main Street in Beacon. The Cup and Saucer Tea Room is still there, but it’s not very English anymore. Six years ago you could get scones, crumpets, and bangers and mash. Now the fair is your basic quiche and salad. But, considering how seedy much of Beacon looked back then, I’ll admit most of the change the development has brought has been positive. However, as the four or five places you can stay in Beacon will cost you $150 to $300 a night, I still recommend heading over to Fishkill, which has a Days Inn for $68 a night, plus breakfast with make-your-own Belgium waffles. Perhaps the increased tourism has also extended the car service hours. 


Dia:Beacon occupies a 1929 Nabisco box printing factory and lights as much of the work as possible with natural lighting from the space’s many windows and skylights. Because of this, it is open for a shorter time in the winter. It is also open Friday through Monday in the dead of winter as opposed to its normal opening days of Thursday through Monday. Year-round the museum opens at 11am. You, however, want to get there before 10:30, because every day it's open they allow a group of people to enter early for a private close-up viewing of Michael Heizer’s North, East, South, West. This piece is basically a series of geometric shapes cut into the concrete factor floor. Normally viewers have to stand a good twenty feet back because of obvious safety concerns, but during the morning tour you get to walk right up to the edge and peer into the abyss. The catch: no one under 18 is allowed on this special viewing tour. Again, for obvious safety concerns. 


The Dia Art Foundation has made it its mission to support works that are not easily accommodated by most conventional museums. Along with its Beacon and Chelsea locations, Dia safeguards such large-scale outdoor works like Robert Smithson’s Spiral Jetty and Joseph Beuys’ 7000 Oaks. It also has several small spaces around NYC with long-term installation pieces by artists like Dan Flavin and Walter de Maria.


Unlike Storm King, most of the works at Dia are found inside, but the surrounding Beacon area offers plenty for those itching for more time outdoors. Follow the Riverfront Trail from the train station to a mile-long loop around Denning’s Point. Closer to the train station is Beacon Point Park with a sculpture pier created by Dia-funded artist George Trakas. There’s also Waterfront Park which boasts a 20-foot floating pool in the middle of the Hudson. 
Then there’s Main Street, which still has plenty of antique shops, but now you can also get a decent cup of coffee and a microbrew. Every second Saturday of the month galleries and shops stay open late for art openings, music, and other special events. Of note is Hudson Beach Glass which offers glass blowing classes and sells some glass works that aren’t completely awful (something difficult to do with glass art). I’m not saying everything is amazing, but there are some nice items on offer. The more adventurous can visit Mountain Tops Outfitters which runs kayaking tours on the Hudson, including some to the Bannerman Castle ruins (something on my list of things to do) near Breakneck Ridge. They can also provide you with hiking maps of Mount Beacon, which includes streams, falls, old casino ruins, and the Mt. Beacon Fire Observation Tower which marks the highest point in Hudson Highlands.

In short, there’s plenty to occupy an entire weekend if you so desire, or head up for just a day to take in the art. However, a word of warning about the art before you go: The vast majority of the Dia:Beacon collection was acquired in the 1960s, 70s, and 80s. This, of course, means that the rooms are chockfull of minimalist and post-modern high-concept works. Think Sol Lewitt, Donald Judd, and Agnes Martin. It is not for everyone. It’s something that vaguely interested me in college, but to be perfectly honest, I wouldn’t go up to Beacon for the art alone. One can see only so many white boxes and florescent lighting tubes in their life before they become a bit tedious.